Peru, Part 12 – Chinchero

Getting near the end, I promise!

Fields on the way to Chinchero – ©Deidre AdamsOn the road to Chinchero – ©2012 Deidre Adams

Another day excursion from Ollantaytambo was to see the village of Chinchero, known for its traditional-style weavers and the extraordinarily fine work they do. It is home to The Centro de Textiles Tradicionales de Cusco (CTTC), founded by Nilda Callañaupa in 1996. Nilda grew up in Chinchero in the 1960s, at a time when “most weaving was of inferior quality with synthetic fibers and Dayglo colors” (Hand/Eye). She later made it her mission to learn the techniques of her ancestors and teach them to other women in the village to preserve the fine craft traditions of the past.

Chinchero weaving – ©Deidre Adams

Our guide at the CTTC was Carolina Concha, who combines work and parenting with admirable ease.

Carolina Concha and son –©Deidre Adams

There was another little girl here at the center that day, keeping herself busy with her own toys or intermittently interesting herself in the work of her elders.

(Side note: In fact, as I noticed throughout most of the places we went in Peru, this seemed to be the way children behaved. They stayed near the adults, playing or otherwise occupying themselves, and they didn’t have tantrums or beg for attention. The only time I saw children out of control was in a rather upscale restaurant in Lima, where an obviously wealthy family was having a large gathering complete with several children and no fewer than 3 nannies in uniform. Still, the children ran around making noise and disturbing the other diners, looking much more like the scenes I’m accustomed to here in the U.S.)

We saw demonstrations of spinning, weaving, and knitting. The CTTC weavers are also making a big push to study and return to the natural dyeing techniques of the past. The beautiful colors come from leaves, moss, lichens, roots, and other plant matter, and of course, cochinilla.

 

After leaving the center, we did a little more exploring of the town and, of course, the ruins.